Blowing it out in Istanbul

by John Lusk on November 11, 2009

What can I say? The spontaneity that began this trip certainly continued with our adventures in Turkey. After blowing it out during our first night in Istanbul, we decided to head South and check out the scenic coastline that so many people have recommended. Fortunately, flights in Turkey are dirt cheap, so we were able to book roundtrip flights for something like $75/person. Unfortunately, we still had to get from the W to the airport…and getting anywhere in Istanbul, at least during normal hours, is an absolute nightmare.

How this city functions with the volume of traffic is beyond me. If you know Rome, multiply it by 20 and you’ll get an idea of how congested the streets are in Istanbul. Going a couple of miles can take a half hour and getting from point A to point B is like going on a bumper car ride at the state fair with no speed limit and no room to move. Our taxi ride to the airport was one of the more interesting taxi rides I’ve ever taken. It goes something like this: We get in a taxi and tell the driver to take us to the airport. After spending 15 minutes trying to confirm our destination, we finally realize we’re going in the wrong direction. Once we’re able to convince the driver that he needs to actually take us to the airport, he then performs a series of U-turns and one-way reverses and ends up at a gas station…where he proceeds to fill up the car. At this point, we’re convinced that we’re not making our flight. He then gets back in the car, takes us to another ‘barrio’ looking

The Blue Mosque at Night

The Blue Mosque at Night

part of the city, stops the car in the middle of the street, takes the keys and then runs into some random building with a bunch of dudes standing outside. Now we’re convinced we’re hosed and begin to nervously
think about the global kidnapping headlines that are bound to run the next morning. A few minutes later, a different guy approaches the taxi, gets in and starts the car and proceeds to drive like a bat out of hell. He gets us to the airport on time and we can only laugh a taxi ride that includes pit stops and driver transfers.

The trip South was fairly uneventful. The seafood on the coast was absolutely amazing and was highlighted by an amazing meal where we got to choose the actual fish that we wanted grilled. For the most part, the entire area is dead this time of year so we headed a bit North and visited some of the more historic sites. Ephesus, the Temple of Artemis and the House of the Virgin Mary were all incredibly cool, not only for their historic and biblical value (where Paul addressed the Ephesians), but also because this stuff is so damn old. It’s hard to believe that people were living in relatively the same manner 2500 years ago and trying to understand how they built these cities is mind-boggling. If you do make it to Turkey, definitely take some time to go check out Ephesus….awesome place.

We came back to Istanbul on Friday afternoon after spending Thursday night in an all-inclusive beach resort with a bunch of older German tourists who were on a bus tour through the region. We randomly stopped at this hotel and negotiated a sick deal with the hotel manager. For about $60/each we got one room with 3 beds, all you can drink alcohol and the opportunity to eat buffet style dinner and breakfast with 300 Germans in a cafeteria style auditorium. We even had Spring Break style wrist-bands to prove our worth and to ensure that nobody kicked us out of the resort. It was humorous, especially given that the vast majority of the tourists had an average of 30 years on all of us.

Istanbul was capped off with more partying, including celebrating my buddy Arol Jahn’s 40th birthday at a swank restaurant/bar near Taksim Square and meeting numerous friends that we all knew from our different travels. In addition to checking out all of the different landmarks (Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Archaeology Museum, Grand Bazaar), we felt that our

Prepping the Hookah

Prepping the Hookah

trip wouldn’t be complete without a trip to a traditional Turkish Bath House. There’s no way I can accurately describe the scene, but try to picture this: Three 6 foot plus Americans walk into a 600 year old bath house with absolutely no clue how the process works. They walk into the ’steam room’ and are immediately surrounded by 20-30 half-naked Turks wearing small towels around their waist and writhing in pain. After several minutes of complete and utter confusion, they’re each grabbed by a personal ‘bather’ (who doesn’t speak English) and taken to a marble slab in the middle of the room…where they are scrubbed clean and pummeled on for approximately 15 minutes. After 5 minutes of relatively tame hair washing, face cleansing and foot scrubbing, they’re led outside and asked to stand in line with a bunch of other dudes who are recovering from their recent body-beating. 30 minutes later, they’re each led into a community massage room where, for another half hour, they’re pummeled again…surrounded by other bath goers who are screaming, moaning and grunting in pain. And as they leave the massage room to go shower, get dressed and recover from their afternoon of ‘luxury’, they’re reminded to tip those who have just tortured the hell out of them. One of the most ridiculous, interesting and humorous situations I’ve ever experienced.

All in all, an awesome time in Istanbul. The city has everything to offer, is absolutely beautiful and has an energy to it that I wasn’t expecting.

Questions, comments, concerns?  Feel free to post below. And don’t forget to check out our pictures of Turkey.

John

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A Night in Sarajevo

by John Lusk on November 5, 2009

OUCH! I don’t want to call it a complete waste, but most of our day was spent recovering from an all night bender last night. Our first 18 hours in Istanbul could have occurred in London, New York or Las Vegas for that matter. Our plane landed from Sarajevo at 7pm, we checked into the W at 9pm and we didn’t leave the hotel until this afternoon. You can’t really blame us. When we asked the concierge where we should go for the evening, he said that the W goes off on Wednesday nights and is ‘the’ place to be in Istanbul. so we stayed. Basically, the W bar turned into a club with killer DJ’s mixing alongside live musicians, performers dancing on the actual bar, and the obligatory $20-$25/drink that we were required to spend. Pretty amazing crowd and not a bad way for us to break into the Istanbul scene…although we certainly paid the price this morning. Needless to say, our travel budget took a hit last night.

And speaking of Sarajevo, what a fascinating city! To summarize, the only reason we even went to Sarajevo was because it provided the easiest and most cost-efficient way of getting to Istanbul. And rather than endure an 8 hour bus ride through the mountains, we chose to hire a recent college graduate to take us from Dubrovnik to Sarajevo. In reality, we went to the taxi line, picked out the nicest car (4 door Mercedes) and convinced the driver to spend their entire next day shuttling us 250Km to our next city. Just so happens that it was this 22

Russ and Jason freezing in front of our hotel

Russ and Jason freezing in front of our hotel

year old kid who had just graduated from University in Split and he was more than happy to oblige. Very cool kid and I think he enjoyed the trip as much as we did.

I’m enthralled with Sarajevo and would love to go back sometime…maybe for a ski vacation. I won’t bring up the war anymore other than to mention that Sarajevo was at the heart of the whole thing, so like most other places in the region, war has had a profound impact on the city. We didn’t really know what to expect and when we first arrived, it was 35 degrees, super-gray and raining. Driving into the city reminded me a ton of Moscow…old communist style buildings that haven’t been maintained, and a ‘dark’ feeling to the whole place. But once we checked into our hotel and started exploring the older section of town, we really began to feel the energy of the city. Randomly, we ran across the kick-off concert of the Sarajevo International Jazz Fest, and in true serendipitous form, purchased tickets. Got to see an American jazz band amongst a bunch of dressed up Sarajevoeans(sp?) in a super-cool music hall. Kind of surreal for us. Afterwards, we asked some folks for suggestions on
dinner and ended up at this traditional Bosnian place in the heart of the old town. Bosnian food rocks by the way. Seriously. It’s awesome.

We didn’t have much time in Sarajevo (only 24 hours), so I’ll briefly summarize what we did beyond the eating

The Latin Bridge

The Latin Bridge

and the concert:

  • Took pictures of the Latin Bridge where Franz Ferdinand was shot. For those who don’t recall, Ferdinand was the Archduke of Austria at the time and his assassination marked the beginning of World War I.
  • Took a tour of the city. What is very cool about Sarajevo is that it’s a mixture of a bunch of different religions. Walking down a street you might run across a mosque, a basilica, a church and a synagogue all within a few blocks of one another.   The people we met were very proud of their heritage and liked to emphasize how everybody just gets along.
  • Took a tour of ‘the Tunnel’. Most of you have no idea what the ‘tunnel’ is, but for the people of Sarajevo, it was a lifeline during the War. It was an 800M tunnel built underneath Serbian troops and used to bring all sorts of things (mainly food, weapons, and ammunition) to the people in Sarajevo.  Kind of reminded me of the Cu Chi tunnels in Vietnam, except much smaller.
  • Enjoyed our first snow of the season. We went from 80 degree temps in Rome to snow in Sarajevo. Nice.

Really wish we could have spent more time in Sarajevo, but for this trip, it was merely a stopover point on our way
to Istanbul. If you do get the chance to visit the city though, definitely take it…well worth the effort.

Questions, comments, concerns? Feel free to post below.

John

PS All of the photos that I’m posting were taken with my iPhone. If you want to see some outstanding shots,
just check out Jason’s pics. He’s taking some amazing photographs.

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War and Introspection

November 3, 2009

Our time in Croatia is easily separated into two distinct trips: partying and introspection. We ended up spending 3 nights in Split mainly because we befriended some locals who turned out to be absolutely fantastic hosts. In addition to taking time to show us their city, they integrated us into the local Split nightlife. [...]

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Croatian Hospitality

November 1, 2009

We’ve tried pretty hard to keep a pretty open schedule, and mind, during this trip.  The only ‘planning’ we did was to make sure we had a place to stay in Rome, an assigned seat on a flight from Rome to Split, Croatia and a ticket from Istanbul back to Seattle.  Everything else has been [...]

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Rome in Three Days

October 30, 2009

We landed in Croatia last night and there’s no way I can summarize our entire Rome trip in one post. So in the spirit of brevity I’ll try to touch on the highlights…of where there are certainly a few:
Highlight #1: Scooter drag racing. Ok, we didn’t really drag-race, but given that we couldn’t [...]

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When in Rome

October 29, 2009

22 days ago I left my job. Today, I just about killed myself weaving in and of rush hour traffic on a scooter…in Rome! My, how quickly environments can change.
Here’s the situation. I’m bound and determined to make the most of the next 2-3 months. I have a mini-bucket list of sorts, [...]

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A Search for Serendipity

October 28, 2009

I don’t have a ton of regrets.  I might stress myself out analyzing the hell out of my decisions, but once I’ve made a decision, I typically don’t look back.  Why should I? What’s done is done and you need to feel like you’re moving towards something. Now, all that being said, I do think [...]

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The Business of Selling Crack

October 18, 2009
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I’m a huge fan of non-fiction pieces.  Books, movies, lectures, you name it.  I’m especially intrigued by human-interest stories.  There’s just something about learning from others experiences, their hardships, their accomplishments, etc. that fascinates me.  Maybe it’s because these types of stories provide a glimpse of something completely unknown and provide a different perspective than [...]

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Are Entrepreneurs Born or Made?

October 13, 2009

Over the years, I’ve met thousands of entrepreneurs from all sorts of backgrounds and walks of life.  When you’re running a small business, you quickly realize that many of the people that you interact with, especially from a business perspective, are also small business owners.  I’ve always wondered what makes somebody want to become an [...]

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Start-up to Big Company

October 9, 2009
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The The MouseDriver Chronicles finishes, the Insiders continue, and our quest to dominate the world with MouseDriver continued, right? (for those not in the know, MouseDriver is a computer mouse shaped as the head of a driver golf club….yeah, tons of intrinsic value there).  Not exactly.  Both Kyle and I knew that we eventually wanted [...]

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